メラニンは悪者?!メラニンを正しく知って美肌になろう!

1
メラニン色素といえば、紫外線を浴びることで作られ、肌のシミ、そばかすの原因となることが知られています。メラニンはお肌にとって悪者のように扱われていますが、実際はどうなのでしょうか?

実は私たちにとって、メラニンとは無くてはならないものなのです。メラニンが生成されるしくみや、その働きを正しく知って、メラニンと上手に付き合っていきましょう。

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そもそもメラニンとは

2
メラニンとは人間や動物、植物、菌類などが生成することが出来る、黒色または茶褐色の色素のことです。人間の肌の色や瞳の色、髪の色などは、メラニン色素の量によって決まります。メラニンは肌にとどまることで、紫外線を吸収し肌を守る働きがあります。そのため、メラニン色素の多い黒人や黄色人種は、メラニン色素の少ない白人よりも皮膚がんが少ないことがわかっています。

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メラニン生成のしくみと働き

メラニンは表皮の一番深いところにある基底層のメラノサイトというところで作られます。紫外線が肌に当たると、その刺激で活性酸素が作られます。活性酸素はメラノサイトにメラニンを作るように司令を出します。メラノサイトでは、活性酸素を材料にしてメラニン色素を生成します。

基底層で作られたメラニン色素は、肌のターンオーバーで表皮の一番外側に移り、肌を紫外線などの刺激から守ってくれます。

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なぜメラニンがシミになるの?

3
メラニン色素は肌の一番外側にある表皮で紫外線から肌を守っています。通常は肌のターンオーバーによって数週間で剥がれ落ちると言われています。日焼けをして、一時的に肌が黒くなっても、しばらくするとまた元の肌の色に戻っているのはそのせいです。

では、なぜメラニンはシミになって肌に残ってしまうのでしょうか?その原因はメラニンが生成される量と肌のターンオーバーのバランスが崩れてしまうことです。では、どのような場合にバランスが崩れてしまうのでしょうか?

紫外線を浴びる量が多すぎる時

屋外でのスポーツや、レジャーなどで長時間紫外線を浴びると、肌に多くの活性酸素が発生します。すると、メラニン色素が大量に生成されてしまい、肌のターンオーバーが間に合わない場合があります。

皮膚の炎症

紫外線だけでなく、何らかの化学物質や、アレルギーなどによる皮膚の炎症や、繰り返される皮膚への刺激も活性酸素を生成して、メラニン色素を作ってしまうことがあります。アトピー皮膚炎などで皮膚が黒ずむ場合や、肘や膝が外からの圧力や刺激によって黒ずんだ場合などがそうです。この場合も、あくまでメラニン色素は皮膚を守ろうとする働きで作られています。

老化によってターンオーバーが乱れる

通常肌のターンオーバーは28日位の周期で行われていますが、加齢に伴って新陳代謝が悪くなると、その周期が長くなってきます。そのため、生成されたメラニンを排出するスピードが遅くなって、溜まってしまったメラニン色素がシミになると言われています。

メラニンの排出は肌によるターンオーバー以外に、マクロファージという免疫細胞の一種に食べられて無くなることがわかっています。ストレスなどによる免疫の低下によって、このマクロファージの働きが悪くなると、メラニンが減らずに肌に残ってしまうと考えられています。これもまたシミの原因になります。

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メラニン生成を抑制するにはどうすればいい?

4

紫外線を浴び過ぎないための対策

30代をすぎたら、とにもかくにも紫外線を浴びすぎないように、様々な工夫をすることが大切です。屋外に出る場合は、たとえ短時間でも肌が露出しないように、日傘や手袋などを利用しましょう。顔や首などは必ず紫外線カット効果のあるクリームや化粧品を使ってガードします。

屋外スポーツやレジャーなどの場合は、通常より強い紫外線カット効果のある日焼け止めが必要です(SPF50以上が望ましい)。汗などをかくと落ちてしまうことがあるので、こまめに塗り直すことを忘れないでください。

忘れがちなのが、目からの紫外線吸収です。瞳の色は黒いので紫外線を集めやすく、強い日差しの下に出る場合は、紫外線カット効果のあるサングラスをするようにしましょう。

化粧品や皮脂に含まれる油分に気をつけて

皮脂や化粧品に含まれる油分は時間と共に酸化することがわかっています。参加した油分は過酸化脂質と呼ばれ、油と活性酸素が合わさったものになります。これがメラノサイトを刺激して、メラニン色素が作られることがわかっています。

肌につける油分はなるべく酸化しにくいものを選ぶようにしたいですね。酸化に強いオイルは、ホホバオイルやアルガンオイルなどです。また、余分な皮脂、や油分はしっかり拭き取るようにしましょう。

不規則な生活・ストレスなどに注意

睡眠不足やストレス、飲酒、喫煙なども活性酸素を増やしてしまうことがわかっています。活性酸素はメラニンの元です。これらも十分気をつけましょう。

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メラニン排出を促進するには?

5

ターンオーバーの正常化

肌のターンオーバーが乱れる原因は、加齢の場合を除くと、不規則な生活や、ストレス、食生活の乱れなどが挙げられます。規則正しい生活を心がけるとともに、肌の新陳代謝を促す食品を積極的に摂るようにしましょう。肌の新陳代謝を促すにはビタミンA、ビタミンC、ビタミンEなどに効果があると言われています。
・ビタミンA…かぼちゃ、ニンジンなどのカロチンを含む緑黄色野菜や、鳥や豚のレバー、うなぎなど。
・ビタミンC…レモン等の柑橘類、キウイフルーツ、さつまいも、紫キャベツ、ブロッコリーなど。
・ビタミンE…ごま油やナッツ類、アボカド、パプリカなど。

ピーリング

ピーリングとは皮膚の角質部分を取り除くことですが、その方法は物理的なものと薬品による化学的なものがあります。自分で出来るピーリングでオススメなのは、比較的刺激の少ない石けんや化粧品を使って行うものです。

フルーツ酸と呼ばれる、りんご酸、クエン酸、乳酸など比較的マイルドなピーリング作用を持つものが多く販売されています。これらは、肌への負担が少なく、角質を取り去って、くすみのない肌にしてくれます。

ピーリングにはエステや皮膚科など専門家のもとで行うものもあります。その場合はもう少し強い薬品を使うので、皮膚の深いところまで行うことが出来ます。そのため、効果がはっきりと分かる場合が多いですが、かぶれなどのトラブルが起こることも多いので、敏感肌などの人は注意が必要です。

化粧品による排出促進

メラニンを排出するためのターンオーバーを促す成分としては、ビタミンC誘導体、プラセンタ、EGF(上皮成長因子)などがあります。これらを配合した化粧品を継続して使うことで、メラニンが肌にとどまることを防ぐことが期待できます。

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メラニン生成抑制、排出促進にオススメの化粧品

エリクシールホワイトシリーズ

6
出典:cosme.net
メラニン生成を抑え、シミ・そばかすを抑えることを目的としたシリーズで、有効成分 ヨモギエキス、ヨクイニンエキス、オリーブ葉エキス、酵母エキス、水溶性コラーゲンなどを含みます。ライン使いすることで、美白効果が最大限に発揮されます。口コミでシミ、そばかすへの効果を感じる人が多く、美白化粧品ランキングでも常に上位に入っています。

アスタリフトホワイト

7
出典:cosme.net
メラニン生成を科学的に研究して作られた化粧品です。研究によって、頑固なシミの原因となるメラニンは、「メラノソーム」と呼ばれる袋の中にたまり、その袋に骨組みがあることが発見されました。この骨組みを分解するAMAという独自の成分を配合しています。AMAとはセリ科のハーブ植物「センテラアジアチカ」に含まれていて、メラニン生成抑制に効果があることがわかっています。

その他にも、シミの原因となるチロシナーゼ酵素を阻害するビタミンC誘導体、メラノサイトを刺激する活性酸素を除去するアスタキサンチンなど、美白に特化した成分が豊富に配合されています。

アンプルール

8
出典:cosme.net
シミに有効な成分「ハイドロキノン」を化粧品に有効な形で安定化し、配合しています。ハイドロキノンとは一般的な美白成分と比較してメラニンを抑制する力が約100倍とも言われ、皮膚科などでも美白の薬品として使われている成分です。

その他にもビタミンC誘導体やセラミドなどを配合。加齢に伴うシミ、そばかすに効く化粧品として人気です。

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メラニンと上手く付き合って美肌を目指そう
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9
メラニンはお肌にとって、決して悪者では無いことが分かっていただけたでしょうか?適切にメラニンが働き、排出されることが、お肌にとって一番いい状態なのです。いつの間にか崩れたバランスをいかに正常に戻していくか、そこに美白、美肌のカギがあります。

紫外線を浴びない、睡眠不足やストレスに気をつけるなどの生活習慣の見直しと、頼りになる美白化粧品との組み合わせで、上手くメラニンと付き合って美しい肌を手に入れましょう。

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