混合肌ってどんな肌?混合肌の方のためのスキンケア方法

1
頬はカサつくのにTゾーンはテカるということありませんか?混合肌の化粧水選びひとつでも、どのタイプを選んで良いのか悩む方も多いのではないでしょうか。混合肌は混合肌のままということはありません。

限りなく普通肌に戻っていきます。そこで、混合肌の原因やスキンケア方法など詳しくご紹介していきます。

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混合肌ってどんな肌?

混合肌の特徴

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出典:nikibino-sos

混合肌とは、肌の部分によって違うタイプになることです。日本人の約7割が混合肌と言われています。特徴は大きくわけて4つあります。

①Tゾーンばかり脂浮きをする

②季節の変わり目には肌質が変わりやすい

③洗顔後肌がつっぱる

④額や鼻筋はテカリやすく、あごは乾燥する

肌質も普通肌と脂性肌、脂性肌と乾燥肌、普通肌と乾燥肌といった組み合わせになることが混合肌と言われています。肌質が複数ある分その箇所にあったケアが必要になっていきます。

混合肌になる原因

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混合肌になる原因は、外的要因と内的要因があります。外的要因にはおもに6つあります。

①紫外線

②エアコンによる乾燥

③間違えたスキンケアによるトラブル

④化粧品が合わない

⑤季節の変わり目

⑥食生活の乱れ、喫煙、アルコール

これらの要因は外部からの刺激です。外部の刺激や紫外線などの影響で肌を保護するために皮脂分泌が活発になってしまうのです。その結果、紫外線が肌表面にある皮脂を酸化させたり,肌を傷つけ皮膚炎になってしまったりすることがあります。

内的要因には、①ストレス②生理前後などでのホルモンバランスの乱れ③免疫力の低下などがあります。

免疫力が低下すると、アクネ菌が増殖し、ニキビができやすくなったり、自律神経が乱れたりし、肌のターンオーバーを妨げてしまい肌のハリを失うことに繋がっていきます。また、生理前後はホルモンバランスが乱れるので、肌に影響しやすくなります。

混合肌のTゾーン、Uゾーンで起こっていること

Tゾーンは、皮脂腺が多い部分なので、Tゾーンがテカる、べたつくといったオイリーになってしまうことは必然的なことのようです。脂性肌と共通しているように感じますが、混合肌の場合は、乾燥がここに潜んでいます。

肌の内部にあるはずの水分が不足している状態をインナードライと言い、この状態になると、肌は水分を逃がさないように、皮脂を多く分泌していきます。肌表面はテカり、内部は水分がなくカラカラの状態になってしまうという肌にとってとても悪い状態になってしまいます。

対処法として、不要な油分を取り除くための洗顔をし、油分を控えた保湿を行うことになります。Uゾーンは、Tゾーンと違い皮脂腺が少ないので、乾燥しがちになります。乾燥により肌を守るバリア機能がしっかり出来ていない状態になり、外部からの刺激に弱くなっていきます。

特にUゾーンで起こるトラブルがニキビや皮膚炎です。大人ニキビの出来る要因は乾燥だけではなく、ストレス、ホルモンバランスの乱れ、内臓疾患など様々あります。ニキビだけのケアと同じく生活習慣を見直すことも大切になってきます。

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混合肌のスキンケア方法

混合肌の洗顔方法

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洗った後でしっとりする洗顔料は、油分が含まれているので、過度な油分を含んでいない固形洗顔料を選ぶようにします。

洗顔を泡立てて、一番最初に肌にのせる場所が頬だと、すすぎまでの間一番長く頬に洗顔料がとどまることになるので、一番乾燥をしてしまいます。そこで、泡立てた洗顔をTゾーンからのせることをおすすめします。

絶対やってはいけないことが鼻などゴシゴシ洗うことです。必要以上に皮脂を洗い流すことで、それ以上に皮脂が出てしまい余計に乾燥を招いてしまいます。

また、乱暴に洗顔をするとますます肌荒れを起こすことになるので、優しくなでるように洗うことが大切です。

混合肌に臨機応変なケア

混合肌の場合、保湿はしっかりすることが大切です。そこで、混合肌には、臨機応変なスキンケアがポイントになります。

保湿をしても部分的に乾燥が気になる場所には乳液などを重ねづけするのも良い方法です。逆にTゾーンは、余分な油が肌の上で酸化しないためにもべたつくようであれば、テッシュなどで軽く押さえるようにします。

具体的にどのようなタイプの化粧品でスキンケアをしていけば良いのかをご紹介していきます。

混合肌におすすめの化粧品の選び方

5
角層は、レンガのように積み重なりその間を細胞間脂質がセメントの役割をし、肌のバランスを保っているのですが、この細胞間脂質であるセメント部分の密度が低くなってしまうと、角層の水分が蒸発し乾燥を招いてしまいます。

そこで、おすすめなのが、セラミド成分が配合されている化粧品を選ぶことです。セラミドは、肌の80%の水分を維持しているので、肌の乾燥を改善してくれます。ただ、セラミドは脂質なので水にほとんど溶けません。

化粧水にセラミドを高濃度配合するのは難しく、濃度自体あまり高くないものが多いようですので、セラミド配合の美容液で取り入れることが効果的です。
セラミドの表示には、セラミド2.3.6.10の数字が入っているものが本物のようです。

次にビタミンC誘導体を取り入れるようにします。ビタミンC誘導体は、抗酸化力が強いので過剰な皮脂分泌を抑えることが出来ます。ビタミンC誘導体は他の成分と混ざると効果が落ちてしまうことがあるので、化粧水で取り入れることが効果的です。

ビタミンC誘導体は化粧品成分表示名が変わります。代表的な表示名をご紹介します。
・リン酸パルミチル酸アスコルビル3Na(APPS、又アプレシエ)
・リン酸アスコルビン酸Na(APS)
・リン酸アスコルビルMg(APM)
・テトラヘキシルデカン酸アスコルビル(VCIP)

混合肌のためのお手入れ方法

混合肌の特徴は、皮脂が多く出てしまう部分と乾燥している部分が混在していることなので、皮脂調整が非常に難しく、ニキビが出来やすくなります。これは、毛穴の出口の角質が厚くなり毛穴をふさいでしまうので、皮脂が詰まりアクネ菌が増殖してしまうのです。

その結果、ニキビになります。出来てしまったニキビのケアには、肌の水分量を増やし、肌を柔らかい状態にすることが大切です。

保湿の後は、乳液、クリームなど水分蒸発を防ぎ、肌を保護することが必要ですが、クリームなどの油分を与えすぎてしまうと返ってニキビを悪化させてしまうことになり、アクネ菌を増やしてしまいます。

乳液、クリームは、パール粒大を頬中心に与えるようにし、手に余った量だけTゾーンにつけるようにします。また、Tゾーンのベタつきが気になる場合は、さっぱりタイプの乳液を使うようにし、Uゾーンはしっとりタイプの乳液を使い分けるのも効果的です。

乳液を選ぶ際は、抗酸化作用、抗老化作用のあるものを選ぶようにします。

混合肌にあうファンデーション選び

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普段のスキンケアに気をつけた上で、混合肌にあうファンデーションの選び方をご紹介します。固形ファンデーションは、乾燥しがちな頬にあまり合わない場合もあり、リクイドファンデーションだとTゾーンのベタつきが気になります。

そこで、ファンデーション選びで重視する点は、保湿力、保水力に優れているジェルタイプのファンデーションがおすすめです。なおかつ、毛穴を引き締める効果があるものを選ぶようにします。

崩れにくく持ちをよくするためにも、化粧下地にUVカットが入っているものをつかうとより効果的です。

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混合肌の方のためのスキンケア方法まとめ

ほとんどの人が多かれ少なかれ日差しを浴びてしまい、気温の変化や季節の変わり目などコントロールが難しくなります。つまり、誰しもが混合肌になる可能性があるということです。

そこで、日中のメイク直しでは、Tゾーンなど余分な皮脂を取り除くようにすることが大切です。あぶらとり紙かティッシュで軽く押さえるようにし、テカリが気になるTゾーン中心にパウダーでおさえていきます。

肌の変化を知ることで、その時の肌にあったケアが出来るようになります。
ぜひ、参考にしてみてください。

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